:root{
  --bg:#f7f1e8; --card:#fffaf3; --ink:#3b2a20; --muted:#7a6656; --accent:#b5562b; --wood:#6b4630; --line:#e6d7c3;
  --gold:#d9a441; --radius:14px;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.45 system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,Ubuntu,sans-serif}
a{color:var(--accent)}
.hero{background:linear-gradient(160deg,#3b2a20 0%,#5c3b27 55%,#8a5532 100%);color:#fdf3e4;padding:18px 16px 22px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:auto -40px -60px auto;width:220px;height:220px;border-radius:50%;background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(217,164,65,.35),transparent 70%)}
.hero-inner{max-width:1100px;margin:0 auto;position:relative;z-index:1}
.kicker{margin:0;padding-right:96px;font-size:.85rem;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:.8}
h1{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-weight:700;font-size:2rem;margin:.15em 0 .2em}
.sub{margin:0;max-width:40em;opacity:.92}
.lang{position:absolute;right:0;top:0;z-index:2;display:flex;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.35);border-radius:999px;overflow:hidden}
.lang button{background:transparent;color:#fdf3e4;border:0;padding:6px 12px;font:inherit;font-size:.85rem;cursor:pointer}
.lang button[aria-pressed="true"]{background:#fdf3e4;color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}
main{max-width:1100px;margin:0 auto;padding:12px 12px 24px}
.filters{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:500;background:var(--bg);padding:8px 0 6px}
.chips{display:flex;gap:8px;overflow-x:auto;padding-bottom:6px;scrollbar-width:thin;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch}
.chip{flex:0 0 auto;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;border:1.5px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);border-radius:999px;padding:7px 12px;font:inherit;font-size:.9rem;cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap}
.chip .dot{width:10px;height:10px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--c)}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--c);border-color:var(--c);color:#fff}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] .dot{background:#fff}
.chip.all{--c:var(--wood)}
.hostonly{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:2px}
.map-wrap{position:relative;border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 4px 16px rgba(59,42,32,.12)}
#map{height:58vh;min-height:320px;max-height:560px;background:#e9e2d6}
.recenter{position:absolute;z-index:600;right:10px;bottom:28px;border:0;background:var(--wood);color:#fff;border-radius:999px;padding:8px 12px;font:inherit;font-size:.85rem;box-shadow:0 2px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.25);cursor:pointer}
.note{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted);margin:10px 2px 6px}
.count{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:1.2rem;margin:14px 2px 8px}
.list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;gap:10px}
.item{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:5px solid var(--c);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:12px 14px;cursor:pointer}
.item:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--gold)}
.item h3{margin:0 0 2px;font-size:1.02rem}
.item p{margin:4px 0 8px;font-size:.93rem}
.meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;font-size:.78rem}
.tag{background:#f1e6d6;border-radius:999px;padding:2px 8px;color:var(--wood)}
.tag.cat{background:var(--c);color:#fff}
.tag.fav{background:var(--gold);color:#3b2a20;font-weight:600}
.links{display:flex;gap:14px;margin-top:8px;font-size:.9rem}
.links a{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}
.emerg{margin-top:22px;background:#fff3ee;border:1px solid #f0cdbd;border-radius:var(--radius);padding:12px 14px}
.emerg h2{margin:0 0 4px;font-size:1.05rem;color:#a12d1c}
.emerg p{margin:0;font-size:.93rem}
footer{text-align:center;padding:20px 12px 32px;color:var(--muted);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
footer p{margin:4px 0}
.small{font-size:.8rem}
/* markers */
.pin{width:30px;height:30px;border-radius:50% 50% 50% 0;transform:rotate(-45deg);background:var(--c);border:2px solid #fff;box-shadow:0 2px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.35);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center}
.pin span{transform:rotate(45deg);font-size:14px;line-height:1}
.pin.fav{border-color:var(--gold);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px rgba(217,164,65,.55),0 2px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
.chalet-pin{width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;background:#3b2a20;border:3px solid var(--gold);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font-size:22px;box-shadow:0 0 0 6px rgba(217,164,65,.35),0 3px 10px rgba(0,0,0,.4);animation:glow 2.4s ease-in-out infinite}
@keyframes glow{50%{box-shadow:0 0 0 12px rgba(217,164,65,.15),0 3px 10px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.chalet-pin{animation:none}}
.leaflet-popup-content{margin:12px 14px;font:14px/1.4 system-ui,sans-serif;color:var(--ink)}
.pop h3{margin:0 0 4px;font-size:1rem}
.pop p{margin:4px 0}
.pop .links{margin-top:6px}
@media (min-width:1000px){
  .layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.35fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:18px;align-items:start}
  .left{position:sticky;top:96px}
  .right .count{margin-top:0}
  .right .list{grid-template-columns:1fr;max-height:calc(100vh - 150px);overflow:auto;padding-right:4px}
}
@media (min-width:900px){
  h1{font-size:2.6rem}
  main{padding-top:16px}
  .list{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}
  #map{height:calc(100vh - 210px);max-height:620px}
  .chips{flex-wrap:wrap;overflow:visible}
}

/* photos */
.hero.has-photo{background:#3b2a20;min-height:340px;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;padding-top:64px}
.hero.has-photo .hero-inner{width:100%;z-index:2}
.hero-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 60%;z-index:0}
.hero.has-photo::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(43,30,22,.55) 0%,rgba(43,30,22,.45) 35%,rgba(43,30,22,.78) 65%,rgba(43,30,22,.95) 100%)}
.hero.has-photo::after{z-index:1}
.hero.has-photo h1,.hero.has-photo .sub,.hero.has-photo .kicker{text-shadow:0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,.55)}
.hero.has-photo .kicker{opacity:.95}
.hero.has-photo .lang{background:rgba(43,30,22,.55);border-color:rgba(253,243,228,.55)}
.gallery{margin:2px -12px 4px}
.strip{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:4px 12px 10px;display:flex;gap:10px;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scroll-padding:0 12px;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;scrollbar-width:thin}
.strip li{flex:0 0 78%;scroll-snap-align:start}
.strip figure{margin:0;position:relative;border-radius:var(--radius);overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);background:#e9e2d6;box-shadow:0 3px 12px rgba(59,42,32,.12);aspect-ratio:3/2}
.strip img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.strip figcaption{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;padding:18px 12px 8px;font-size:.85rem;color:#fdf3e4;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(43,30,22,.8))}
@media (min-width:600px){.strip li{flex-basis:44%}}
@media (min-width:900px){
  .hero.has-photo{min-height:380px}
  .hero.has-photo::before{background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(43,30,22,.85) 0%,rgba(43,30,22,.55) 45%,rgba(43,30,22,.2) 75%,rgba(43,30,22,.15) 100%),linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(43,30,22,.25) 0%,rgba(43,30,22,0) 40%,rgba(43,30,22,.7) 100%)}
  .gallery{margin:0 0 6px}
  .strip{padding:4px 0 10px;scroll-padding:0}
  .strip li{flex-basis:calc((100% - 40px)/5)}
}